First Post

Sorry about the delay on the blog.  Between google and japanese computers, it's been a nightmare.  Adam has agreed to post these for me.

I recommend Singapore Airlines.  Their only drawback is that they fly out of LAX.  There was lots of construction at LAX.  There were big signs, saying how much more beautiful the airport would be, but no mention how that would actually improve a traveller's experience.  Sounds like LA to me.  After going through security for the second time that day (thanks LAX), we finally made it into the air.  Singapore provided excellent digital entertainment and a very good Japanese meal.

Our first weekend was filled with tours--for some reason, that seemed to be all that was available.  It was exhausting.

We took a Sunrise tour of the Golden Pavilion (which I hadn't seen), the Imperial Palace (which needed permission from the powers that be to enter, hence the store-bought tour), and Nijo Castle.  I've been through it several times already, but Gary needed to hear the nightengale floors and see the beautiful gardens.  It was way more rushed than I'd like, but that the way of bus tours, I guess.

The next morning we took a walk with Joe Odaka, an 84 year old Samurai.  He was delightful, witty, and knowledgeable.  He did the "tour" through neighborhoods dressed in traditional garb.  It was very low key and unhurried.  We started the tour with a shot of sake, and it set the tone.  He seems to be something of a local celebrity, so it was fun to watch the local react to him.  We didn't do any landmarks, except we went to a teahouse in the Imperial Palace.

That afternoon we went to a tea ceremony, where I was the guest of honor (which  meant I got to make a fool of myself before Gary).  It took place at a tea school of a samurai type.  Our guide was a student of tea, and was curious about the differences between her tradition and this school.  It was special and beautiful (except for the two ugly Americans).  Of course, neither of us could walk properly after kneeling on the floor for two hours.  But it was a unique experience.

The next morning we met Mayumi, who had taken us to the Moss Temple (Saiho-ji) on my last trip to Kyoto.  She's such a sweetheart.  She was not doing tours for Chris Rowthorn any more, but agreed to take us for a walk.  We started at Tofukuji, a temple near our hostel with large grounds, really nice, sophisticated gardens, and a stream to provide background sounds.  It was lush with Japanese maples; I'm sure it's amazing when the leaves turn.  She knew a backwoods path to the Fushimi Inari shrine, so we walked through the woods, visiting small, local shrines along the way.  She offered to take us to a small shrine guaranteed to bring me grandchildren, but, out of deference to our children, we passed.

We wound up the tour at the Inari Shrine with its ten thousand tori gates.  We stopped with Mayumi at a small tea shop run by some friends of of hers at the shrine.  It was nice meeting some locals, even if there was a language problem.  My Japanese allows me to discuss the weather, but that's about all.  It was a wonderful day.  Mayumi is such a special person.

Well, the clothes are dry, so I will wind up for today.  K's House is great.